Artifacts in the Exhibition
1. White Shirt (Camisa) with Red Stripes and Geometric Patterns
Unknown maker, Guatemala, Amatitlán, 1975.
Handwoven cotton warp-faced rep (plain-weave with prominent weft ribs) with multicoloured discontinuous supplementary wefts motifs at the collar and sleeves.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (1975.2.152).
This shirt's cuffs are not designed to circle the wrist; they are only decorative.
Worn with:
2. White and Red Striped Pants with Multicoloured Woven and Embroidered Patterns
Unknown maker, Guatemala, Todos Santos Cuchumatán, 1975.
Handwoven warp-faced cotton with use of acrylic yarn in supplementary wefts motifs.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (1975.2.136).
3. Multicoloured Striped Sash
Unknown maker, Guatemala, Santiago Atitlán, 1975.
Handwoven warp-faced plain weave cotton with jaspe (ikat) stripes.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (1975.2.115).
4. Yellow Kente Cloth with Multicoloured Patterns
Unknown maker, Ghana, ca. 1935-1945.
Handwoven cotton strips in plain weave variations with supplementary weft.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Purchased from Mari Bergen (1996.26.56).
5. Black Kente Cloth with Multicoloured Stripes
Unknown maker, Ghana, ca. 1970-1980.
Handwoven warp-faced cotton strips with bands of weft-faced stripes.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Leo Marinier (1989.35.1).
6. Ashanti Narrow Strip Loom (Heddles, Pulleys, Hangers, Foot Pulls, Warp, and Beater) and Cloth
Unknown maker, Ghana, Bonwire, 1997.
Wood loom components with cotton yarn and kente cloth in plain weave variations.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Purchased from Mari Bergen (1996.26.57.b, d, f).
7. Off-white Smock
Unknown maker, Ghana, Hausa, ca. 1975.
Cut and sewn handwoven cotton plain weave strips.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Lila Enberg (1988.8.1).
Worn with:
8. Multicoloured Kente Cloth Hat
Unknown maker, Ghana, Kumasi, ca. 1966.
Handwoven rayon in various weave structures.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Dr. Nancy Kerr (1983.36.4).
9. Backstrap Loom and Weaving with Multicoloured Animal Geometric Weaving
Unknown maker, Guatemala, no date.
Wood loom with cotton threads and unfinished warp-faced fabric with continuous and discontinuous supplementary weft motifs.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (unaccessioned).
The use of weaving metaphors is especially important. In certain instances, it may pertain to childbearing and food preparation, which symbolize women’s generative ability. 2 As a result, textiles and textile equipment are often used as blessings for childbearing, connecting human and supernatural realms in Maya culture.3
(2) Janet Catherine Berlo, “Beyond Bricolage: Women and Aesthetic Strategies in Latin American Textiles,” RES: Anthropology and Aesthetics 22, no. 1 (1992): 119.
(3) Berlo, “Beyond Bricolage,” 120.
10. Indigo Blue Skirt with White and Blue Stripes and Dots and Multicoloured Embroidered Seams (Randas)
Unknown maker, Guatemala, Chichicastenango, 1975.
Handwoven cotton plain weave with jaspe (ikat) motifs.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Anne Lambert (1975.2.83).
11. Ivory, Mauve, and Yellow Huipil with Bird Motifs
Unknown maker, Guatemala, San Pedro Sacatepequez, 1975.
Handwoven cotton with bands of twill weave and supplementary weft geometric patterning trimmed with silk ribbons and cotton machine-made lace.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (1975.2.63).
The machine-made lace at the neckline is a sign of global influences.
Worn with:
12. Indigo Blue Wrap Skirt
Unknown maker, Guatemala, no date.
Handwoven cotton with double jaspe (ikat) motifs and vertical warp float textured stripes.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Anne Lambert (2008.31.16).
13. Multicolored Striped Sash
Unknown maker, Guatemala, 1975.
Handwoven cotton warp-faced rep with discontinuous supplementary wefts forming stylized motifs.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (1975.2.261).
14. Backstrap Loom and Weaving with Multicolored Geometric and Floral Motifs
Unknown maker, Guatemala, no date.
Wood loom with cotton threads and unfinished plain weave cotton rep with continuous and discontinuous supplementary weft.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (unaccessioned).
15. Multicoloured Geometric Huipil
Unknown creator, Guatemala, San Pedro Sacatepequez, 1975.
Handwoven plain weave cotton with multicoloured continuous and discontinuous supplementary weft motifs.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (1975.2.5).
16. White Embroidered Floral Huipil
Unknown creator, Guatemala, Totonicapan, no date.
Industrially woven cotton twill and embroidery thread.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Rosemarie Solomon (1984.39.4).
17. Multicoloured Huipil with Birds, Flowers, and Scissor Motifs
Unknown creator, Guatemala, San Antonio Aguas Calientes, 1975.
Handwoven warp-faced cotton rep with weft-faced multicoloured motifs and trimmed in cotton velveteen. Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (1975.2.54).
18. White Huipil with Red, Yellow, and Blue Embroidered Suns, Stars, and Birds (at Waist under the Sash)
Unknown creator, Guatemala, San Mateo Ixtatán, 1975.
Unbleached machine-woven plain weave cotton with multicoloured satin stitch embroidery.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (1975.2.118).
Worn with:
19. Indigo Blue Skirt with White Stripes and Multicoloured Embroidered Seams (Randas)
Unknown maker, Guatemala, Chichicastenango, 1975.
Handwoven cotton plain weave with vertical stripes.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (1975.2.85).
20. Multicoloured Striped Sash
Unknown maker, Guatemala, Tecpán, 1975.
Handwoven warp-faced cotton rep with multicoloured warp-faced blocked stripes.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (1975.2.237).
21. Red Kerchief with Multucoloured Patterns
Unknown maker, Guatemala, Chichicastenango, 1975.
Handwoven warp-faced cotton with supplementary weft motifs.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (1975.2.197).
Maya backstrap-loom textiles include symbolic elements associated with the human body, the landscape, and the cosmos. 4 As a result, we can often see such motifs as human figures, birds, flowers, leaves, suns, and stars.
(4) Walter Little, “Weaving Ritual and the Production of Commemorative Cloth in Highland Guatemala,” Dimensions of Ritual Economy 27 (2008): 139.
22. Red, Black and Green Printed Blouse (Kaba), Skirt (Slit), and Headcloth (Dukku)
Diana Lamisi Karimu designer, Lamie Designs, Ghana, ca. 1990s.
Wax-printed plain weave cotton and cotton damask trim.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Purchased from Mari Bergen (1996.26.62.a, b, c).
Symbols have deep cultural significance and are often associated with proverbs and wise sayings in Ghana. 5 The “Gye Nyame” symbol on the cloth means "except God". This represents the belief in the supreme power of God in all things.6
(5) Naa Densua Tordzro, “Decolonising African Costume and Textiles: Naming, Symbols and Meaning in The Ghanaian Context” (MPhil(R) thesis, University of Glasgow, 2021): 34-35.
(6) Samuel Kissi Baah, Peggy Ama Fening, and Eric Appau Asante. 2019. “The Philisophy of Adinkra Symbols in Asante Textiles, Jewellery and Other Art Forms”. Journal of Asian Scientific Research 9 (4):33.
23. Red Striped Shirt (Camisa) with Multicoloured Stripes
Unknown maker, Guatemala, Sololá, 1974.
Handwoven warp-faced cotton rep with jaspe (ikat) motifs Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (1974.12.18).
Worn with:
24. White Pants with Multicoloured People, Bird, and Plant Motifs
Unknown maker, Guatemala, Santa Catarina Palopó, 1975.
Handwoven warp-faced cotton and acrylic rep with discontinuous coloured wefts.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. (1975.2.209).
25. Indigo Blue Sash with White Stripes
Unknown maker, Guatemala, San Pedro Sacatepéquez, 1975.
Handwoven warp-faced cotton rep.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. (1975.2.226).
26. Yellow and Black Printed and Embroidered Adinkra Funeral Cloth
Unknown maker, Ghana, Ashanti, no date.
Strips of hand-printed plain weave cotton with multicoloured cotton embroidery threads.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (1980.1.4).
Stamped fabrics with symbolic motifs called Adinkra are worn in ceremonies of remembrance after a recent death (nawotwe da) or to honour “all those who have died (owuofo).” 6 Symbols can represent “a complex interplay of the visualization of proverbs, moral maxims, and popular sayings.” 7
(6) Daniel Mato, “Clothed in symbols: wearing proverbs,” Passages, University of Michigan Library website, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/p/passages/4761530.0007.004/--clothed-in-symbols-wearing-proverbs?rgn=main;view=fulltext.
(7) Mato, “Clothed in symbols: wearing proverbs,” https://quod.lib.umich.edu/p/passages/4761530.0007.004/--clothed-in-symbols-wearing-proverbs?rgn=main;view=fulltext.
27. Multicoloured Cloth with "Angelina" Pattern
Unknown maker but printed with the words “Guaranteed Dutch Java Print,” Ghana. ca. 1980s.
Plain weave cotton with printed design.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Marie Dunn (2014.11.2).
The printed fabric known as “Angelina” was named after a song by the Ghanian band “The Sweet Talks” which rose to popularity at the same time.8 This fabric is most often used to make dashiki garments.
(8) “Angelina,” Vlisco, accessed 13th April 2023. https://www.vlisco.com/fabric_story/angelina/.
28. Backstrap Loom and Weaving with Multicoloured Human Figures and Birds Motifs
Unknown maker, Guatemala, no date.
Wood loom with handwoven cotton threads and unfinished warp-faced cloth with discontinuous weft motifs.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (unaccessioned).
29. White Dress and Coat with Grey Embroidery
Unknown maker, Sierra Leone, 1972.
Synthetic figured weave with machine embroidery.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Nancy Gibson. (1984.6.4).
30. Multicolored Printed Tunic with “Angelina” Patterns and White Embroidery.
Unknown maker, Chad, ca. 1970-1980.
Plain weave cotton with printed and embroidered designs.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Leo Marinier (1989.35.9).
31. Blue Dress with White Embroidery
Unknown maker, Ghana, ca. 1975.
Plain weave cotton with machine embroidery.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Lila Enberg (1988.8.28).
32. Blue Striped Shirt (Camisa)
Unknown maker, Guatemala, Sololá, 1974.
Handwoven warp-faced cotton rep with jaspe (ikat) stripes.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (1974.12.19).
Worn with installation Jeans.
33. Multicoloured Huipil with Birds, Flowers, and Geometric Motifs
Unknown maker, Guatemala, San Antonio Aguas Calientes, 1975.
Handwoven cotton in various weave structures and with discontinuous supplementary wefts forming bands with birds and floral patterns. Trimmed in purple velveteen.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. (1975.2.53).
34. Orange, Royal Blue, Green, Yellow, and Red Kente Cloth Ensemble
Lomie Dress Design, Ghana, ca. 1980s.
Strips of kente cloth of plain weave variations including weft-faced stripes and supplementary weft motifs
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Purchased from Mari Bergen (1996.26.54 a, b, c).