[De]Coded – Artifacts in the Exhibition

May 11, 2022 - March 1, 2023

Curators

Anne Bissonnette, PhD, Emma Carr, BA, Josée Chartrand, MA, and Qi Wang, BA


[De]Coded:
Deciphering the Dialects of Dress

ARTIFACTS IN THE EXHIBITION

 

RCMP uniform

1

Royal Canadian Mounted Police Uniform (known as the “Red Serge”)

Worn in Sainte-Anne-des-Lacs, Québec, Canada, before 2016

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 2017.2.1 a (wool jacket); b (wool pants); d, e (leather boots); f (wool & leather hat); g, h, q (leather gloves & holster belt); o, p (metal spurs).

Donated by Christiane Lemay

 

The North-West Mounted Police (1873-1920) preceded the RCMP. The organization aimed to address violent and illegal activities three years after Canada purchased the North-West Territories.[1] A 1950s author describes how red coats represented British traditions and principles.[2] The author believed that “to the Indian the red coat meant honesty, fairness, courage, square dealing.”[3] While the author presented a colonial perspective, the sight of the “Mountie” may have been reassuring to some as they walked a fine line between governmental mandates and sincere community service.

 

Delorme Ribbon Dress

2

Red Printed Ribbon Dress

Cotton dress made by Janet Delorme in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, before May 2021, worn by her to Congress in 2021

Loaned by Janet Delorme and the University of Alberta, Faculty of Native Studies

 

Worn with

Black Wood Bead Belt and Printed Cotton Shawl

Made by Janet Delorme in Edmonton Alberta, Canada, before May 2021, worn by her to Congress in 2021

Loaned by Janet Delorme and the University of Alberta, Faculty of Native Studies

 

 

Janet Delorme is Blackfoot from the Blood tribe, or Kainai Nation. She started with the Faculty of Native Studies in July 2018 as Front Desk Reception, but has previous experience working within the U of A over the past 20 years. She has over 15 years in an office environment and 10 years working as a bookkeeper. She enjoys working with people and learning new things each day. Below is a description of her making process in her own words.

 

The ribbon dress was part of an inspiration design for Congress 2021 held virtually by the University of Alberta in May 2021. The theme for Congress 2021 was “Northern Relations”. The concept of my creation was to represent Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women (MMIW). Depending on the part of Canada, the title could include Girls, Boys, Men, Two-spirited, and/or all genders. At this point with the theme and my concept I felt they were two different areas and did not include it in my overall project. But the ribbon dress was still made to represent MMIW overall.

I want to share some background information on why I chose to work on a ribbon dress for MMIW. My older brother was murdered back in 1986 and there was no justice. I was very young when this happened, but it still is a very important part of my life growing up as it made me who I am today. Not only did it shape my way of thinking of how the justice system failed my family, but how Indigenous people are treated in Canada. Not to go deep into politics or get very personal, but sometimes we need to be presented with the truth in order to understand our path in life. Sometimes tragedies or pain can help you strive to be stronger or successful. Or it can go the other way and bring depression or bad things in life. For me it brought strength and I continue to help others.

I am one of many family members from the Blood Tribe that had been meeting for many months to collaborate on the ribbon dress and provide a vision to others, especially non-indigenous people, and to bring awareness to MMIW. It has been difficult to provide insight to the creation of the ribbon dress, but it has also brought healing to hear others share their stories. As well as having time to grieve with them with many tears of sadness and disbelief. Upon hearing memories of our loved ones, there were fond happier times when they were here with us and their memories forever live within us.

My ribbon dress represents MMIW through my eyes. The colour of red means strength, power, and awareness, as well as violence and blood. My design, colours, and material are heart shapes and red cloth with satin red and black ribbons. I chose hearts instead of the MMIW handprint. Indigenous people, especially in ceremony, connect to our mind, body, and spirit. The heart not only symbolizes the body, but connection to our loved ones. The black ribbon represents mourning and memories of the ones who passed on before us and our ancestors. The red ribbon represents love and womanhood as well as strength, power, awareness, and violence.

I was taught from my mother that the ribbon dresses for Blackfoot peoples were very sacred and used for ceremonies or wearing in pow-wows such as regalia or to honour blessings and success. Other people were not allowed to touch your dress without permission. The traditional dresses were made from hide and in later years fabric and materials like wool, broadcloth, and silk. The front and back as well as along the edging were beaded and would consist of lines or curves. The dress would include fringes along the edges that were cut from the hide used. Some dresses had cowrie shells attached in a row as a straight edge design or v-curve. Going back further, some of the traditional dresses were made from elk teeth or called an Elk tooth dress, this was part of the crow nation as well as Blackfoot confederacy.

This project and the ribbon dress I created are not only dear to me to represent my own family and friends that I lost due to being murdered or gone missing, but to make people understand that most people hold some sort of heartache or sadness within them. And to be kind to others because we just do not know what hardship or struggles others may have or had. Having the opportunity to showcase my gifted talent allows me to speak on my own tragedies to help me heal and give my inner spirit the release to bring in positive energy. Thank you so much for allowing me to share.

 

 

Hmong Hat

3

Multicoloured Hmong New Year's Hat

Thailand, ca. 1980-1987

Child’s cotton hat with appliqued embroidered motifs

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 1987.9.7

Donated by Anne Lambert

 

The Hmong are an ethnic minority group in Thailand who maintain their traditional culture through language and dress. Children’s hats are an essential component of their culture. They may be embellished with abstract geometric embroidered patterns, which “Hmong could understand as a shared visual language within an oral culture.”[4]  Other decorative treatments can include appliqué, coins, and pom-poms, the latter aiming to protect from evil spirits by disguising the child as a flower.[5]

 

Skull Cap from Ghana

4

Multicoloured Cotton Skullcap

Ghana, ca. 1975

Cotton warp-faced band and cream-colored covered top

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 1988.8.10

Donated by Lila Enberg

 

Saffron-coloured Sikh Turban 

5

Saffron-coloured Sikh Turban

Likely from South Asia, ca. 1990

Cotton, pre-draped man’s turban

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 1990.18.1

Donated by Susan Pointe

Photograph of a man in a turban, India

Josée Chartrand

 

 

Blue Saami Hat

6

Blue Saami Hat

Finland, ca. 1960s

Men’s felted wool hat with four-point crown trimmed in yellow and red piping; fur and felt hatband with red, yellow, and green ribbons

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 1990.15.45

Donated by Anne Lambert

 

Given to Leonard Lambert and/or his son Bernard, by a Finnish businessman. Leonard Lambert was Bombardier's distributor for Western Canada, and had traveled to Finland to attend a meeting in connection with the opening of a new distributorship in Finland.

 

Multicoloured Tete Case Headdress 

7

Multicoloured Tete Case Headdress

Made by Esma Jn. Marie in Saint Lucia, 1983

Cotton headdress worn by Sister Mary Gallagher and created specifically for a Mission Fair in Cincinnati, Ohio.

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 1985.7.3

Donated by Janice Smith

 

Part of the Wobe Dwiyet (national costume of Saint Lucia), this square of Madras cloth is folded to suit “the romantic commitment of the person wearing it.”[6]  Three peaks signal the wearer “is married and not available.”[7]

 

Black “Terry Fox Marathon” “Pearly Queen” Suit

8

Black “Terry Fox Marathon” “Pearly Queen” Suit

Made by Thelma Chissell (British) and worn in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, 1970s

Polyester embellished with mother-of-pearl buttons and the words “Terry Fox” and “Marathon of Hope”

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 2012.4.9 (shirt) and 2012.4.7 b (skirt)

Donated by June (née Chissell) and Michael Dickerson

 

Black “Pearly King” Three-piece Suit

9

Black “Pearly King” Three-piece Suit

Made by Thelma Chissell (British) and worn by Tom Chissell in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, 1970s

Polyester embellished with pins and mother-of-pearl buttons and the words “Pearly King”

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 2012.4.2 a (jacket); b (pants); 1993.11.2 ab (shoes); bandana and shirt on loan from MacEwan University

Donated by June (née Chissell) and Michael Dickerson

 

Pearly kings and queens raise funds for charity in attire that draws from regional and occupational dress. The copious use of low-cost mother-of-pearl buttons was developed by Henry Croft (1862-1930), a man born in a Victorian workhouse orphanage in central London.[8]  He expanded upon a practice by local costermongers (street traders). Dressed in “flash boy” outfits with a row of ornamental pearl buttons on their pants, costermongers believed in helping those in need, even when they had little to give.[9]

 

Black “Pearly King” Suit, Cap, and Tie

10

Black “Pearly King” Suit, Cap, and Tie

Made by Thelma Chissell (British) and worn by Tom Chissell in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, 1970s

Polyester embellished with mother-of-pearl buttons and the words “Edmonton Pearly King”

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 2012.4.1 a (jacket); b (pants); 2012.4.5 (cap); 2012.4.4 (tie); 82.12.1 ab (shoes); dress shirt loaned by MacEwan University

Donated by June (née Chissell) and Michael Dickerson

 

Black “Pearly Queen” Ensemble

11

Black “Pearly Queen” Ensemble

Made and worn by Thelma Chissell (British) in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, ca. 1970s

Polyester skirt suit and hat embellished with mother-of-pearl buttons and the words "Pearly Queen of Edmonton" Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 2012.4.6 a (jacket); b (skirt); 2012.4.10 (hat); 1991.20.82 (shoes); bow loaned by MacEwan University

Donated by June (née Chissell) and Michael Dickerson

 

The Pearly costumes tell a story of immigration and collective culture. This Edmonton Pearly family brought with them the values of the British Pearly community that aimed to help orphans and, eventually, collected for “the poor, deaf, dumb or blind.”[10]  The tradition uses the power of dress to bring awareness to charitable causes, and continues today in London.

 

Green Cocktail Dress

12

Green Cocktail Dress

Anne Klein & Co., New York City, USA, ca. 1950-65

Worn by Grace Keys in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, ca. 1950-1965

Silk satin dress

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 1998.33.37 a

Donated by Sheila Keicher

 

Worn with

Black Feathered Hat

Probably worn in Alberta, Canada, ca. 1965

Wool felt, iridescent feathers, grosgrain ribbon

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 1979.11.14

Donated by Margaret K. Donald

 

Costume Jewelry

Probably worn in Alberta, Canada, ca. 1950s-1970s

Plastic and metal

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 1991.20.52 a

Donated by Barbara Dorosh

 

Turquoise Pearlized Mules

Probably worn in Alberta, Canada, ca. 1965

Leather, plastic, and elastics

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 1979.11.18 a, b

Donated by Margaret K. Donald

 

Teal Suit

13

Teal Suit

Custom manufactured by Petone’s Clothes, Kowloon, Hong Kong, from measurements taken on the client in Toronto, Ontario, Canada, ca. 1960s-1970s

Worn by Harold Joseph Ashbridge Chambers (1902- 1990) in Toronto, Ontario, Canada, ca. 1960s-1970s

Loaned by Bill Sellers

 

Worn with

Brown Eyeglasses

Plastic, ca. 1960s

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 1988.65.55

Donated by Johanna Lawrence

 

White Shirt

Loaned by MacEwan University

 

Gold Silk Tie

Probably worn in Alberta, Canada, ca. 1965

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 2005.29.18

Donated by J. Reid Finlay

 

Brown Leather Brogue Shoes

Moy Kopf Shoes Manufacturer, Europe, 1940s

Leather and rubber

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 2016.11.19 a, b

Donated by Jim Whittome

 

Yellow Platform Boots

14

Yellow Platform Boots

Worn in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, ca. 1975-1979

Leather, plastic and wood

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 1994.27.1

Donated by Rob Maranchuk

 

Rob acquired these boots for approximately $60 at a shop during the 1976 opening of Kingsway Garden Mall in Edmonton. He wore them to the University of Alberta, to work as a soundman of a Rock band, and to clubs, bars, and movies.

 

Multi-coloured First Nations Gauntlets 

15

Multi-coloured First Nations Gauntlets

Unknown maker but assumed to be from a First Nation

Belonged to Vera Mabelle Campbell (née Gainer) (1915-1998), Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, ca. 1940-1990

Leather and glass beads

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 1999.1.12 a, b

Donated by the Estate of Vera Campbell

 

White Cowboy Hat

16

White Cowboy Hat

Macleod Brothers, Calgary, Alberta, Canada, ca. 1950s

Wool and leather

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 2018.11.22

Bequest of Margaret Hess

 

Shriners’ Fez Hat

17

Shriners’ Fez Hat

Dominion Regalia, Toronto, Ontario, Canada, ca. 1950-1999

Wool, plastic, and rayon

FIC 2014.1.d

 

Teal University of Alberta Chancellor's Robe

18

Teal University of Alberta Chancellor's Robe

Made by Harcourt & Sons Limited, robe makers and tailors in Toronto, Ontario, Canada, 1998

Worn by Lois Hole in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, between 1998 and 2000

Polyester garment with silver-coloured “lace” trim

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 2005.12.24

Bequest of Lois Hole

 

Worn with

Black Velvet Tam with Silver-coloured Tassel

Made by Harcourt & Sons Limited, robe makers and tailors in Toronto, Ontario, Canada, 1998

Worn by Lois Hole in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, between 1998 and 2000

Rayon velvet and tassel

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 2005.12.25

Bequest of Lois Hole

 

Red Shirt and Embroidered Blue Jeans 

19

Red Shirt and Embroidered Blue Jeans

North American, ca. 1969 (shirt) and 1972 (pants)

Polyester-blend shirt with white top-stitching and cotton denim pants

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 1994.27.2 c (shirt) and 2015.9.1 (pants)

Shirt donated by Anne Lambert and pants donated by Christopher Robing Allen

 

Worn with

Dark Blue and Maroon Two-toned Platform Shoes

Brazil, 1970s

Leather

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 1994.28.50

Donated by Anne Lambert

 

Yellow “DRESS CODES ARE SEXIST RACIST CLASSIST” T-shirt

20

Yellow “DRESS CODES ARE SEXIST RACIST CLASSIST” T-shirt

Gusonzsore, Sheridan, Wyoming, United States, 2021

Cotton polyester blend

Loaned by Anne Bissonnette

 

Blue and Yellow Striped School Blazer

21

Blue and Yellow Striped School Blazer

Probably worn in Canada from the last quarter of the 20th century until 2013

Wool blazer with a patch pocket monogrammed in gold on dark blue with the letters “JM” in a circle

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection, 2013.3.1. a

Donated by Jane Fitzpatrick

Anne Bissonnette, PhD
Emma Carr, BA
Josée Chartrand, MA
Qi Wang, BA

 


[1] The Canadian Encyclopedia, s.v. “North-West Mounted Police,” https://www.thecanadianencyclopedia.ca/en/article/north-west-mounted-police.

[2] John Peter Turner, The North-West Mounted Police, 1873-1893, Vol. 1 (King’s Printer, ON: 1950), 92.

[3] Ibid.

[4] Geraldine Craig, “Patterns of Change: Transitions in Hmong Textile Language," Hmong Studies Journal 11 (2010):  1.

[5] Mary Alice Chaney, “Hmong Baby Carriers in Minnesota: A Material Culture Study” (PhD Diss., University of Minnesota, 2011), 34. https://hdl-handle net.login.ezproxy.library.ualberta.ca/11299/115678.

[6] “Saint Lucian Traditional Wear,” Embassy of Saint Lucia to the Unites States of America, https://www.embassyofstlucia.org/culture-and-national-festivals.

[7] Ibid.

[8] London Pearly​ Kings and Queens Society, “Henry Croft 1862-1930),” https://www.pearlysociety.co.uk/henry-croft.

[9] Ibid. See also Pearlies of King Cross & St Pancreas, “Our History,” https://www.pearlies.org.uk/the-original-pearlies-history.

[10] London Pearly​ Kings and Queens Society, “Henry Croft 1862-1930),” https://www.pearlysociety.co.uk/henry-croft.