Curious Fashions, Performative Identities: Artifacts in the Exhibition

April 12, 2024 - October 11, 2024

Curators

Isabelle Arden, Alexis Billiones, Anne Bissonnette, PhD, Janna Ehrenholz, Olivia Nash, Lola Oberhagemann, and Madison Silva co-curators


Artifacts in the Exhibition

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Black Metal Case, Stand, and Grey Wig
J.K. Metherell, 3 Bell Yard, Temple Bar, London, England, ca. 1751-1850.
Metal stand and case (possibly tin), the latter with “James Smith Esqre.” in gold lettering.
“Esqre.” stands for “esquire” and suggests the use of the wig by an attorney who passed the Bar examination.
Horsehair wig with one printed label that reads “J.K. METHERELL, MAKER, 3 Bell Yard Temple Bar, London,” and a second handwritten label that reads “James Smith Esqre..”
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Purchased from Deborah Burke (2014.4.2abc).

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Maroon Floral Motif Three-piece Suit
Unknown creator, Dublin, Leinster, Republic of Ireland, ca. 1700-1765. Possibly a court ensemble.
Silk velvet outer fabric.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by D. Colvin McDormand (1995.1.1abc).

Installation shirt, neck stock, stockings, and shoes.
Mount and paper hair by Olivia M. Nash.

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Portraitof Marc de Villiers
Jacques-Andre-Joseph Aved, Paris, France, 1747.
Oil on canvas.
The J. Paul Getty Museum (79.PA.70).
Image in the public domain courtesy of The J. Paul Getty Museum.

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Portrait of Nicholas Boylston (1716-1771)
John Singleton Copley, United States of America, Boston, 1773. Frame by John Welch.
Oil on canvas.
Harvard University Portrait Collection (H20), Painted at the request of the Harvard Corporation, 1773.
Image courtesy of © President and Fellows of Harvard College.

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Red and Yellow Printed Dressing Gown
Unknown creator, United States of America, ca. 1820s-1840s.
Outer fabric of printed silk satin, coat lining of silk twill, and cotton twill pocket lining.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. 2018 purchase from Titi Halle Cora Ginsburg LLC (2018.4.2).

Worn with:
Black Tuxedo Pants
Tip Top Tailors, Ontario, Canada, 1932-1934.
Wool twill, with black corded elastic on outer leg seams.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Elaine Bitner (1984.2.1b).

Red Slippers
Label reads “A. A. Vantine Co imported from Constantinople.” Made in Istanbul, Turkey. Sold by A. A. Vantine Co., 877 & 879 Broadway, New York, United States of America, ca. 1866- 1920s. Size 10.
Leather.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Purchased from Augusta Auctions (2018.15.3ab).

Installation stockings, shirt, cuffs, and scarf. Reproduction fez.
Mount and paper hair by Lola Oberhagemann.

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White Cord-quilted Nightcap
Unknown creator, England, United Kingdom, ca. 1700-1725.
Linen twill lined with plain-weave linen.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection.
2024 purchase from Titi Halle Cora Ginsburg LLC who acquired it from a UK dealer (not yet accessioned).

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Red Slippers with Turned-up, Pointed Toes
Label reads “I. Miller, 202 W. 23D St. 1155 B’Way,” New York, United States of America, possibly made in Constantinople, Turkey, ca. 1895-1970’s.
Leather.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection.
Purchased from Augusta Auctions (2018.15.4ab).

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Multicoloured Printed Dressing Gown and Belt
Fly Limited/The Flying Wheel Trademark, England, 1930.
Dressing gown of cotton velveteen. Belt of rayon.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Heather Martin (1973.13.2ab).

Worn with:
Red Slippers
Label reads: “A.A. Vantine, 877 & 879 Broadway, N. Y,” United States of America, likely imported from Constantinople, Turkey, ca. 1866-1920’s.
Leather.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Purchased from Augusta Auctions (2018.15.12ab).

Installation shirt, ascot, and stockings.
Paper hair by Alexis Billiones and Lola Oberhagemann.

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Portrait of a Man, reclining on a Sofa, reading
François-Xavier Vispré, Europe, 1750.
Pastels on vellum.
Ashmolean Museum’s Western Art department.
Gift of Gerald Reitlinger (WA1978.53).
Image courtesy of © Ashmolean Museum, University of Oxford.

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John Robison
Sir Henry Raeburn, Edinburgh, Scotland, 1798.
Oil paint on canvas.
University of Edinburgh Art Collection (EU0010).
Image courtesy of © University of Edinburgh Art Collection.

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Tan Hide Jacket with Beading and Fringe
North American maker, likely from the Métis or Cree nation, Alberta, Canada, ca. 1910-1920.
Smoke-tanned moose hide with glass beads.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Mrs. Ruth McKinley (1990.40.1).
Worn with installation jeans.

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Blue Jacket with Beading and Fringe
Made by Maria Vermilion (née Tthigule), Fort Chipewyan, Alberta, Canada, late 20th to early 21st century.
Wool stroud, likely glass beads.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Worn by Pat McCormack (not yet accessioned).

Worn with installation t-shirt, jeans, and boots.

The Chipewyan (also known as Denesuline) are Indigenous Peoples of Canada. The maker spent time in the area by House Lake (Birch River), a Chipewyan homeland.

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Grey & Black Floral Embroidered Women’s Western-style Shirt
H Bar C California Ranchwear, Los Angeles, U.S.A., ca. 1970s.
Polyester gabardine with pearlized snap buttons.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Margaret Hess (2018.11.6).

Worn with
Silver-coloured Saddle-shaped Bolo tie
Unknown creator and place of origin, ca. 2003.
On loan from Janna Ehrenholz.

Green & Bronze Belt Buckle
Unknown creator, Canada.
Inscribed with “Border Trucking Limited Lloydminster” in the front and “Made in Canada” in back.
2024 purchase.

Tan Cowgirl Boots
Boulet, Canada, ca. 2005.
On loan from Janna Ehrenholz.

Installation jeans and belt.
Mount by Janna Ehrenholz.

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Ivory Printed Nursing Gown
Unknown creator, England, ca. 1825-1830.
Striped cotton mull (i.e. plain weave) roller printed with floral motifs.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. 2024 purchase from Titi Halle Cora Ginsburg LLC who acquired it from a dealer in Stockbridge, MA, who acquired it from a dealer in England in 2022 (not accessioned).

Worn with:
Black Satin Slipper Shoes
Unknown creator, Canada, ca. 1820s-1830s.
Silk satin uppers with a rosette and leather sole.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Jim Whittome (2001.6.8ab).

Mount and paper hair by Madison Silva.

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White Embroidered Cap
Unknown creator, United States of America, ca. 1850s.
Likely cotton mull (i.e. plain weave).
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Titi Halle Cora Ginsburg LLC (2019.9.4).

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Turquoise Floral Hat with Pink Flowers and Green Leaves
Francette, Toronto, Canada, ca. 1967.
Plain weave polyester organza.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles
Collection. Donated by Mrs. Mary Hislop-Perraton (1997.7.1).

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Teal Suit Jacket and Dress Ensemble
Margaret Rae, Edmonton, Canada, ca. 1960s.
Basket woven wool blend.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles
Collection. Donated by Dr. Elizabeth Richards (2008.21.8).

Worn with:
Teal Helmet-style Hat
Boutique New York/ Montreal, may be from Canada or the United States of America, ca. 1960-1969.
Rayon felt, trimmed with a synthetic fiber satin button and plain weave grosgrain ribbon, most likely made of synthetic fibres.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles
Collection. Donated by Mrs. Barbara Dorosh (1991.20.47).

Brown Patent Leader Pumps
Roger Vivier Boutique, unknown place of origins, likely France, ca. 1975.
Leather.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles
Collection. Donated by Monique Kornell (1993.14.3ab).

Installation gloves.
Mount and paper Hair by Alexis Billiones.

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Ivory Blouse & Quilted Dress Suit
The label reads: “Empire, Made in the British Crown Colony of Hong Kong,” ca. 1960s.
Silk satin with machine-quilting on jacket & skirt portion
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated at the Bequest of Margaret Hess (2018.11.11abc).

Worn with:
Beige and Taupe Hat with Artificial Foliage
Helen Yoffe, Canada, North America, 1962.
Silk satin weave with 3-dimensional polyester organza foliage and brown velvet hatband.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Annette Ostapovitch (1975.10.3).

Off-White High-Heeled Shoes
DeMarco, Edmonton, Canada, ca. 1967.
Handmade with silk satin upper with leather insole. Worn and donated as part of a wedding ensemble.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Jo-Ann Prodor (1999.54.1g).

Installation gloves.
Mount and paper hair by Isabelle Arden.

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Ivory Cocktail Dress with Blue, Green and Peach Floral Motifs
Miss Giesse, components and productions may originate in Italy and Alberta, Canada, ca. 1960-1965.
Polyester taffeta.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles
Collection. Donated by Isabel Soper (1988.30.2).

Worn with:
Blue Hat with Feather Extensions
Unknown creator and place of origin, ca. 1950s-1960s.
Plain weave polyester trimmed in polyester velvet covering a wire and metal base structure.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles
Collection. Donated by Mrs. Marjorie W. Buckley (1981.27.12).

Ivory Shoes
Custom Craft Schwartz Benjamin, Schwartz &
Benjamin Inc, America, ca. 1950s-1960s.
Leather.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles
Collection. Unaccessioned.

Installation gloves.
Mount by Janna Ehrenholz. Paper hair by Anne Bissonnette.

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White Dress with Floral Print
Gunne Sax by Jessica, San Francisco, United States of America, ca. 1970s.
Plain weave cotton and polyester voile with acetate plain weave lining. Trimmed in torchon bobbin lace.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Midge Smith (2002.3.1).

Worn with installation Shoes.
Mount by Madison Silva and Alexis Billiones. Paper hair by Emily Graca.

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Light Brown Printed Maxi Dress
Gunne Sax by Jessica, San Francisco, United States of America, ca. 1965-1975.
Cotton plain weave, machine lace trim, and crochet accents.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Brenda Saluk (2008.19.3).

Worn with installation shoes.
Mount by Madison Silva and Alexis Billiones. Paper hair by Donnalee Riley.

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Ivory Floral-printed Bias-cut Evening Dress
Unknown creator and place of origin, ca. 1930s.
Silk crinkle-finished crepe.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Transferred from the University of Alberta Drama Department (77.5.101).

Worn with:
Pink T-strap Evening Sandals
Unknown creator and place of origin, ca. 1935.
Silk satin, leather, and silver-coloured metal buckles.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Heather Martin (1986.36.28cd).

Mount and paper hair by Janna Ehrenholz.

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Cream-Coloured, Floral-printed Shirt
I. Miller Creation, Canada, North America, ca. 1970s.
Polyamide knit.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Anne Lambert (1994.28.47a).

Worn with:
Blue Jeans with Embroidered Patches
Lee Jeans, North America, 1972.
Twill weave cotton denim, multicoloured embroidered patches.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Christopher Robing Allen (2015.9.1).

Maroon and Dark Blue Shoes
Unknown brand, Brazil, South America, 1970s.
Leather.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Anne Lambert (1994.28.50fg).

Mount by Janna Ehrenholz.

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Burgundy Floral Suit Jacket
Soul of London, made in China and sold by Simons, Canada, Edmonton, 2024.
Outer fabric: 90% polyester and 10% metallic fibres jacquard weave, lining: 100% polyester.
2024 purchase.

Worn with:
Black Silk Bow Tie
John Forsyth, North America, late 19th- early 20th century.
Silk dobby weave with metal fastenings.
Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Midge Smith (2002.3.15).

Installation shirt, pants, and shoes.