Be My Guest – Artifacts in the Exhibition

9 April to 25 October 2019

Curators

Carolina Amaral,  Anne Bissonnette, PhD, Elizabeth Brandeau, Leah Hrycun, Katelin Karbonik and Amber Peters, exhibition co-curators

Artifacts in the Exhibition

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


1

Beige Pintucked Dress

Unknown Maker. Canada, ca. 1900s

Plain woven linen, cutwork.

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Marj Watt (1993.6.3ab).

 

Worn with:

Black Embroidered Bib Apron

Unknown Maker, Scotland, mid to late 19th century.

Sateen, cotton embroidery, machine lace, and seed beads.

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Janice Hanson (1997.4.5).

Beige Heels

Unknown Maker or Origin ca. 1900s

Tanned leather.

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Margaret Gower (1991.27.6ab).

Paper hair by Carolina Amaral.

2

“Signet Platinum” Dinner Service

Wedgewood, England,1994 and after.

Used by Leah Hrycun (1981- ) in Edmonton, Alberta ca. 2000-present.

Bone china with platinum leaf.

Anonymous loan.

“Oxford Platinum” Water Goblet and Wine Glass

Royal Doulton, England, 1998-2004.

Used by Leah Hrycun (1981- ) in Edmonton, Alberta ca. 2000-present.

Lead Crystal with platinum leaf.

Anonymous loan.

“Tramontina” Silverwear

Brazil, late twentieth century.

Inox.

Anonymous loan.

3

Brown Dress

Unknown Maker and Origin. ca. 1890s.

Plain taffeta, velvet, machine lace.

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Transferred from the University of Alberta Drama Department (1977.5.22).

 

Worn with:

Black Feathered Hat

Unknown Maker, Canada, ca. 1898-1900.

Velvet, ostrich feathers.

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Mrs. A. W. Frost (1976.21.3).

Kid Leather Gloves

Unknown maker and origin, 19th to 20th century.

Kid Leather, bronze buttons.

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Eva Wiltshire (1996.9.2gf).

Brown Boots

Known Maker, USA, Washington, ca. 1900s.

Leather.

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Banff Centre of Fine Arts (1981.13.94ab).

 

Paper hair by Elizabeth Brandeau.

4

Carved Eastlake-Style Wood Chair and Table

Unknown maker and place of origin, late 19th century. Purchased in Edmonton in 2019.

Wood (table and chair) and cotton velvet (chair).

Exhibition props.

 

“Old Country Roses” Tea Pot, Cream and Sugar with Platter, Tea Cup and Saucer

Royal Doulton, Royal Albert, designed by Harold Holdcroft, United Kingdom, 1962 and after. Used by Phina Liske (1927-2010) in Onoway and Stony Plain, Alberta ca. 1969-2004.

Bone china with gold leaf.

Anonymous loan.

 

 

Today, as in the 19th century, women care for and value china.

This collection has been passed down through three generations of women and now belongs to the great grand-daughter of the original owner.

5

Burgundy Tea Gown

Unknown maker and place of origin, ca. 1891.

Made from a European (likely Scottish) “Paisley” shawl.

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Jessie Lloyd (2000.2.1ab).

 

Worn with

Brown Boots

Godman, Unknown Origin, Late 19th century.

Leather.

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Banff Centre of Fine Arts (1981.13.85ab).

 

Paper hair by Leah Hrycun.

6

Copper Quilted House Coat

Unknown creator, United Kingdom, England, ca. 1936.

Rayon Taffeta.

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Dr. Robert H. Blackburn (1990.20.13).

 

Worn with:

Black Suede T-strap High Heeled Shoes

Clarks, United States of America, 2007.

Anonymous loan.

 

Paper hair by Loretta Yau.

 

This house-coat, like others in this exhibition, evokes images of home and domestic space. Through the use of padding (8a) and quilting (6, 7, and 8a), these fanciful interior gowns also hinted at the sophistication of its wearer. This style of house-coat (6) “is destined to elevate those little evenings at home from the commonplace to an event.”[1]

[1] “Vogue Designs for Dressmaking: Gifted Ideas to Work On,” Vogue (New York) December 1, 1936, 96.

7a

Quilted Dressing Gown or House Coat

Unknown creator, Canada, Nova Scotia, ca. 1939-1945.

Assemblage of rayon and silk fabrics and embroidery thread. Metal buttons.

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (1987.13.2).

 

Worn with:

Blue Suede High Heeled Shoes

Royal Quality, unknown place of origins, ca. 1940s.

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Acquisition (1990.55.21).

 

Paper hair by Anne Bissonnette.

 

7b

Rust Striped Hostess Dress

Unknown creator, Canada, Ontario, Toronto, ca. 1936-1959.

Rayon Taffeta and silk velvet trim.

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Erica Bottcher (1996.28.2).

 

Worn with:

Black Suede High Heeled Shoes

I. Miller, Great Britain, England, ca. 1950s.

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Mrs. Ruth McKinley (1990.40.20).

 

Paper hair by Donalee Riley.

8a

Turquoise Hostess Gown

Dynasty, Hong Kong.  Belonged to Dr. Margaret (Marmie) Perkins Hess, member of the Order of Canada (1982), ca. 1960s.

Shiny silk plain weave satin with corded buttons.

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Hess Bequest (2018.11.13).

 

Worn with:

Silver Pumps

Fantiques brand, unknown place of origin, likely worn in Canada, Edmonton, ca. 1965.

Synthetic materials.

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Jo-Ann Prodor (1999.54.9).

 

Paper hair by Gabriella Sequeira.

8b

Turquoise Overdress with Beaded Collar and Cuffs over Turquoise Dress with Beaded Waistband

“Junior Vogue,” United States of America, New York, ca. 1960s.

Nylon, plain chiffon, plastic beads.

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Mrs. Phoebe Campbell (1987.66.1ab).

 

Worn with:

Silver Pumps

Wild Wolleys, likely worn in North America, ca. 1960s.

Synthetic materials.

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Lynn Podgurny (2017.5.1).

 

Paper hair by Cybil Cameron.

9

Rust Hostess Gown

Unknown maker and place of origins, ca. 1930.

Silk satin with silk chiffon inserts.

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Charlotte Massy (1972.8.3).

Worn with

Black Leather Shoes with Broguing

“Combination Fitting,” unknown maker and place of origins, ca. 1920s-30s.

Leather.

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Purchase (1990.55.19ab).

Paper hair by Anne Bissonnette.

10a

Pink Lace Dress

Unknown Maker, Canada, Alberta, ca. 1950s.

Acetate taffeta, machine lace, taffeta ribbon, pelon lining.

Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Richard Y. Secord (1981.23.7).

 

Worn with:

Bronze Leather T-strap High Heeled Shoes

Werner Kerr, Italy, ca. 2004.

Anonymous loan.

10b

Black Cocktail Dress with Back Draping

Edward Abbott, Canada, ca. 1955.

Rayon faille.

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Mrs. Ruth Bowen (1978.14.22).

 

Worn with:

Black Suede Pumps with Black Lace Insets

Skyline “in your width” Clarks Masterpiece, North America, ca. 1951.

Donated by Jane Fitzpatrick (2013.3.2.a).

 

Paper hair by Amelia Vadnais.

11

Cocktail Shaker

Unknown maker and place of origins, ca. 2000

Metal.

Anonymous loan.

 

Martini Glasses

Unknown maker and place of origins, ca. 2000.

Leaded glass.

Anonymous loan.

 

Accent Table

Unknown maker and place of origins, ca. 1950s-1970s.

Wood.

Purchase.

12

Pink Evening Dress

Unknown maker, United Kingdom, ca. 1880s.

Plain and brocaded silk faille.

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection (1987.27.1).

 

Worn with

Black Ribbon Neck Ribbon with Ornament

Late 19th- early 20th century.

Silk, brass, and rhinestone.

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Shirley Ronaghan (1989.8.21).

Ivory Silk Satin Shoes, ca. 1900-1905.

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Robert Folinsbee (1992.3.1ab).

 

13

Black Double-Breasted Tuxedo

Unknown maker, North America, ca. 1924.

Wool suiting, silk satin lapels and silk braid.

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by G.H. Linney (1981.12.16a-c).

 

Worn with:

White Striped Cotton Shirt

Arrow Shirt Company, Canada, ca. 1920s.

Starched cotton shirting

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Mrs. Lillian E. Linney (1981.12.7e).

Black Silk Satin Bow Tie

Unknown manufacturer and place of origin, ca. 1850-1990.

Silk satin

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Pat Bates (1990.13.3).

Black Leather Shoes

Florsheim Shoes, North America. Purchased at Johnstone-Walker in Edmonton in 1962.

Black leather.

Human Ecology’s Anne Lambert Clothing and Textiles Collection. Donated by Aubry Strohschein

(1982.12.1a-b)

 

Paper hair by Katelin Karbonik.

14

Black Printed Dress with Sewing Supplies Pattern

Hide & Seek, China. Purchased and worn in Canada, 2017.

Polyester knit.

Anonymous loan.

 

Worn with:

Black Leather Shoes

Unknown maker, likely sold in North America, ca. 1990s.

Purchase second-hand in 2018 for exhibition prop.

 

Paper hair by Emily Graca.

 

This dress, which belongs to one of the co-curators, is one she would wear to a potluck. As a 23 year-old, she purchased this piece because it could be used for many different occasions by dressing it up or dressing it down. For school, she wears it with leggings, and for dinner out, with black tights. Such versatile pieces are emblematic of our society: each piece of clothing must be able to play many roles as we shift through the many stages of the day.

15a

Lobster-Shaped Jell-O Mold

Solid Copper, Korea, 20th century.

Copper and aluminium.

 

15b

Pineapple-Shaped Jell-O Mold

Unknown maker and place of origin, 20th century.

Copper and aluminium.

 

15c

Glass-covered Dish

Maker unknown, likely USA, mid to late 20th century.

Glass and ceramic.

 

All artifacts are anonymous loans.

 

Jell-O democratized the aspic, making it widely available. One of the molds features a pineapple, which has become a symbol of hospitality[1] and therefore very appropriate for hostessing. The visually appealing glass dish with lid is both for show and transport, and thus focuses the attention away from the hostess to the guest.

[1]Gohmann, Joanna M, 2018, “Colonizing through Clay: A Case Study of the Pineapple in British Material Culture,” Eighteenth Century Fiction 31 (1): 143–61.

16

White Button-up Blouse

Zara Woman, Turkey, ca. 2018.

Rayon Polyester Blend, plain weave.

On loan from Leah Hrycun.

 

Black Wide-leg Trousers

Zara Woman, Turkey, ca. 2018.

Rayon Polyester Blend, crepe weave.

On loan from Leah Hrycun.

 

Worn with:

Black Leather Cross Strap Heeled Shoes with Contrasting Stitching

VS, unknown place of origin, ca. 1990s.

Anonymous loan.

 

Paper hair by Ryley Halbert.

 

This ensemble can straddle different events. However, if worn with a jacket, it would be too formal for a potluck, and despite its business-inspired style, the owner finds its lack of structure inappropriate for her line of work. This reveals the unspoken social obstacles women continue to face.